Beauty: An Enigma


Beauty: An Enigma

If you read only serious news – climate change, Russia-Ukraine war, Trump’s tantrums, Sensex movements, and similar stuff - you may have missed the latest list of ‘Ten Most Beautiful Women in the World’.

Who made that list, why and how?

Dr. Julian De Silva

Well, it was the outcome of a ‘study’ by Dr. Julian De Silva - an ophthalmologist by education and training, who later trained in Plastic & Reconstructive surgery – focussing only on the Face - and has about 10-year experience in facial surgery. Possibly, he is the owner-proprietor-surgeon-researcher of Centre for Advanced Facial Cosmetic and Plastic Surgery, London. Should you like to ‘Book a Consultation,’ his portal provides a telephone number.

Dr. De Silva meticulously measures facial features of select celebrities to determine the score for perfect beauty by using the Greek mathematical ‘Golden Ratio’. He has reportedly published such Top Ten lists in 2016, 2019, and 2022, too.

In the latest list, Hollywood actress Emma Stone with a score of 94.72%  is the most beautiful woman in the world. Two Indian beauties have made it to the top ten - Freida Pinto is third, and Aishwarya Rai Bachhan seventh. Rejoice, India! China has only one – Tang Wei, the actress (not to be confused with Teng Wei, Professor of Comparative Literature, who may be beautiful on her own right) at ninth. What if India is way behind China in per capita income, and nuclear war-heads; it is higher in ‘beauty’ index!

Golden Ratio (GR)

What’s the Golden Ratio? Attributed to Euclid, the father of geometry, the golden ratio is a mathematical constant approximately equal to 1.6180339887…. It is often associated with proportions considered harmonious, balanced, or aesthetically pleasing in art, architecture, geometry, and nature - e.g., flower petals, nautilus shells, human anatomy.

GR enthusiasts find a high GR score in all things perfect and beautiful including Parthenon – a masterpiece of Doric architecture, Egyptian pyramids, and Da Vinci’s Mona Lisa! In his book on GR, Mario Livio[i] traces its origin and popularity over the ages, but he debunks several myths. Da Vinci has left behind copious notes on his works, but there is no mention whatsoever of his application of GR ratio to draw Mona Lisa, asserts Mario. People see what they wish to see! Research can be influenced by a-priori concepts, theories, presumptions, and prejudices.

The ’study’

Since 2016, several media channels have run the lists compiled by Dr. De Silva, but none has raised any question or concern about the ‘study.’ Here are a few questions that may put a perspective to the list.

Why did Dr. De Silva conduct this study? Not for intellectual or aesthetic curiosity, but to promote his business, no doubt. What was the sample size – 10/50/100? Were only celebrities considered? Were mostly western female beauties considered? Was their consent obtained? Why was only ‘face’ measured to derive the score? Why not the heart, kidney, or liver? Why was the GR used?

Can ‘beauty’ be reduced to a mathematical equation? Isn’t it yet another ploy to objectify women? Why should a human be tempted, manipulated, or coerced to compare with others, and feel thrilled or devastated depending on the ‘score’? Isn’t every human unique?

Soon, Indian parents of ‘IIT-IIM educated, MNC-employed son’ may place matrimonial ads seeking proposals ‘only from tall, fair-complexioned, well-educated girl from a respected family. Candidates with Golden Ratio score of at least 85% may apply.’

An imagined chat

A client books a consultation, and meets Dr. De Silva at the appointed hour. This is how the chat proceeds:

Lady: Tks, Doc for seeing me at short notice. Do you think my face needs fixing?

Doc: Why, what do you think? Aren’t you happy with your face?

L: Well, I’ll be candid. I know I’m very beautiful. So, a bit disappointed not to be in your Top Ten list. What was my score, if you don’t mind sharing? Which features of my face were found wanting?

D: That was an academic study, driven by my intellectual, aesthetic curiosity. I’m disinclined to suggest corrective surgery basis the GR.

L: No issue. Tell me which of my facial features can be improved? How many sittings? Cost of procedure is no issue, but I’ve a very busy schedule, you know, and may need to cancel a few previous commitments.

The competent, conscientious doc took several close photos of her face from various angles, and said, ‘I’d study and analyze these photos and recommend corrective surgery, if needed. In our next session, I’ll brief you about the procedure, and show you AI-generated images of how your face would look after the surgery.’

The session ended. The hefty consultation fee had been paid at the time of booking the consultation.

What is Beauty?

What is beauty? Who is a beautiful person?

Concept of beauty has significant cultural variations, preferences, and nuances. There are no universally-accepted essential features or parameters to evaluate a person’s beauty.

Beauty is not in the face!

Had the surgeon-researcher read thoughtful poets, he might have hesitated to estimate beauty based merely on facial features.

“Beauty is not in the face; beauty is a light in the heart,” asserts Kahlil Gibran.

“Beauty is truth’s smile when she beholds her own face in a perfect mirror.” - Rabindranath Tagore

“The loveliness of a woman lies in her speech, not in her form.” - Thiruvalluvar (Tirukkural)

Beauty and vanity

Vanity is most often a close companion of beauty.

The evil Queen - Snow White’s step-mother asked,

“Mirror, Mirror on the wall,
Who is the fairest one of all?”[ii]

She was devastated and furious when the mirror named Snow White.

Snow White was, of course, fair-complexioned. What was the evil Queen’s colour?[iii]

Feminine Beauty 

Classical Indian texts

Kamasutra discusses feminine beauty at length. It is more than a treatise on sex. A comprehensive manual on love, and the art of enjoying love, sex, and life; it provides guidance for success in kama, one of the fundamental goals of life . Inter alia, it also discusses the attributes of attractive men and women. Physical beauty, alone, is inadequate. Beauty needs a thinking mind, a feeling heart, sensibility, compassion, and much more.

In the Śilpaśāstras, holistic feminine beauty is defined through physical proportions (tāla-māna system), bodily attributes (lakṣaṇa), and aesthetic qualities (bhāva & rasa).
The purpose was to guide the sculptors and painters to represent idealized beauty—physical, emotional, and spiritual. Following these textual guidelines, the sculptors and artists captured exquisite feminine beauty in their immortal works - the yakshi at Sanchi stupa, the frescoes on the walls of Ajanta and Ellora, and the sculpture of shalabhanjika.


(A beautiful lady in classical tri-bhanga pose_Chennakeshava temple,Belur; Source: Wikimedia Commons))

Sanskrit Poetry

Beauty cannot be measured by a tape, in mm or cm. Sanskrit shringar poets, especially Kalidasa and Jayadev, celebrate feminine beauty in immortal verse – through the sheer power of words, similes, and metaphors.

In Meghadutam, the Yaksha suffering a curse and banished from his abode, pines for his absent lady-love by seeing her in various facets of nature. In an exquisite verse, Kalidasa celebrates the Yakshini’s beauty through nature.  

“In the śyāma-vines I see your body,

your glance in the gazelle's startled eye,

the cool radiance of your face in the moon,

your tresses in the peacock's luxuriant train,

your eyebrow's graceful curve in the stream's small waves;

but alas! O cruel one, I see not

your whole likeness anywhere in any one thing.”[iv]

(Bold Italics by blogger)

Beauty cannot be reduced to just one or a few features.

Jayadeva describes Radha’s beauty in memorable verses in Git-Govinda. Krishna’s neglect has deeply hurt Radha. To placate her, Krishna sings in praise of her beauty:

Your lips are luscious red like Bandhuka[v] flower; your face has the golden pale hue of the Madhuka (Mahua) flower; your eyes surpass in beauty the blue lotus; your nose is exquisite like a tila (Sesame) flower; and your teeth sparkle white like kunda-kalika (jasmine bud) flower. How amazing that you’re a mortal, yet are endowed with the heavenly beauty and effulgence of apsaras – Madalasa, Indumati, Manorama, Rambha, Kalabati, and Chitralekha!

You are Beautiful!

Do not judge a book by its cover, counsel the wise. The most appealing, alluring cover can never hide if there is trash inside. Yet, many succumb to the easy trap of facial charm. What if a beautiful face has rotten teeth, foul odour, and the mouth opens to shower unprintable expletives in a hoarse voice? What if she’s a dumb beauty - not physically-challenged, but with a weak mind?

A person is more than her face, body, flawless pearl-white skin, hairstyle, expensive attire, sun-glasses, fragrance, luxury car, accent, etc.

A human is a complex being- impossible to judge on one or a few parameters.

If you’re a model, or aspire to rise and shine in show-biz, you may stress about your bodily features; but if you’re happy to be alive, at peace with yourself and the world, and have a purpose in life; your inner beauty would radiate naturally and it’d be impossible for the world to pass by without noticing. A fragrant rose makes its presence felt even when unseen.

You are as beautiful as you wish to be, but you need to work on it. All your life.

Transience of Beauty

But it’s good to remember; beauty, like fame, wealth, and life itself, is transient and ephemeral.

The famed courtesan Ambapālī  was celebrated for her incredible beauty. When she grew older, she meditated on her fading form. This led her to illumination, and she became an arahant -liberated one – in the Buddhist Order.

In the Therīgāthā, she sings:

“The hairs on my head were once curly,

black, like the color of bees,

now because of old age

they are like jute.

It's just as the Buddha, speaker of truth, said,

nothing different than that.”[vi]

Just in Jest: My score

What may be my ‘score,’ I wondered.

Dr. De Silva may or may not take up a study to bring up a list of Ten Most-Handsome Men in the World, and even if he does, he is unlikely to include in his sample a dark-skinned, seventy-one-year-old Indian who has never been complimented as handsome, by women or men, in his youth or later. Not to be put down by such depressing thoughts , I sought ChatGPT’s help.

Me: Can you please estimate my GR?

ChatGPT: Yes, I can help estimate your facial ratio if you upload a clear front-facing photograph.

I did that. C asked me for ten measurements in mm or cm. You may use a scale/ruler on the printed photo or screen, it suggested.

Me: Sorry, I’ve no time for that.

C: No issue. I can try an approximate visual proportion assessment, but it will be less precise.

Me: I’m fine with that. Pls go ahead.

C: “Your Overall Estimated Golden-Ratio Harmony Score

≈ 78% to 85% range.

This would be interpreted as:

‘You have good natural facial proportional harmony with partial alignment to the golden ratio — especially around the eyes — while other areas show normal human variation.’

This is very much within the typical healthy adult proportional range, and is not a cosmetic judgment.

***

 



[i]  The Golden Ratio: The Story of PHI, the World’s Most Astonishing Number (2002) by Mario Livio - Israeli-American astrophysicist, Hubble Space Telescope scientist, and popular science writer.

[ii] In Brothers Grimm’s fairy-tale Snow White (1812), the original German word was  Spieglein meaning ‘little mirror;’ in the English retelling, it became ‘mirror, mirror’, and in Disney’s Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs (1937), it became ‘magic mirror.’

[iii] In the original Brothers Grimm tale, the Queen’s colour (appearance or complexion) is not specified.

Only Snow White is described in the famous formula:

“skin white as snow, lips red as blood, hair black as ebony.”

The Queen—Snow White’s stepmother—is simply described as a beautiful woman, proud and vain, and obsessed with being the fairest.

But no colour—skin, hair, or attire—is given in the early editions of the Grimms’ text.

Where does the idea of the Queen’s colour come from? Disney (1937) gave her a pale, aristocratic complexion. Later illustrations dressed her in black and purple, adding to her sinister aura. (Source: Chat GPT)

[iv] The Complete Works of Kalidasa, Vol-1: Poems; Translated by Chandra Rajan, Sahitya Akademi publication

[v] Scarlet mallow, Midday flower (Pentapetes phoenicea) A bright red flower, often compared in Sanskrit poetry with the color of rising sun or red lips. Frequently used in similes in classical kāvya.

[vi] Therigatha: Poems of the First Buddhist Women; Translated by Charles Hallisey, Murty Classical Library of India.

Teesri Kasam urf Maare Gaye Gulfaam

Teesri Kasam urf Maare Gaye Gulfaam

Maare Gaye Gulfaam

Maare Gaye Gulfaam - a musical play dramatized, designed, and directed by Raghuvir Yadav, a veteran actor-singer-performer from Madhya Pradesh - was recently staged at Rabindra Bhavan, Bhopal. The play was based on Phanishwar Nath Renu’s eponymous story on which Shailendra, the renowned Poet-Lyricist had produced the award-winning film Teesri Kasam (1966) with Raj Kapoor and Waheeda Rehman in the lead roles.

Who is Gulfaam, and why or how did he get killed, I had no idea. Why did Renu choose this as the title for his story? I looked up.

Gulfaam is a Persian word literally meaning rose/flower-faced (gul-rose/flower, faam- complexion/colour), a gender-neutral word for a man or woman with a pretty face. In Teesri Kasam, the song Maare Gaye Gulfaam has been filmed on Hira Bai, the heroine, thus making Hiraman the gulfaam who was slaughtered in ‘love.’ But that’s only half the story, for Hira Bai was herself gulfaam, too, and equally a victim of love and loss.

Hiraman had seen only her feet when Hira Bai got into the canopied, covered-cart. Much later, when he chanced to see the sleeping beauty with moonlight on her face - her diamond nose-stud twinkling like a star, and her ruby ear-pendants red as drops of blood - he exclaimed : “Arre Baap, e toh Pari hai!”

MGG is a tragic love-story with a difference; not of the epic scale of Heer Ranjha or Laila Majnu, but understated, implied, and suggested. A potential but unrealisable love-story between a rustic bullock-cart driver (gadiwan) and a nautanki-girl which was nipped in the bud before it could even blossom. Maybe, that’s why when Shailendra heard Mohan Rakesh read MGG over radio, his eyes teared up, he decided to make a film on the story, and contacted Renu who readily consented to the proposal.

The Story

Set in rural north-east Bihar around Forbesganj near Nepal border, timeline of 1940s, maybe; it tells the story of Hiraman, the gadiwan, and Hira Bai, the Company zenana (woman). It all begins when Hira Bai takes a thirty-hour ride on Hiraman’s bullock-cart.

Hiraman has sworn not to transport smuggled goods (Pehli Kasam), or to carry a load of bamboos (Doosree Kasam) which once had caused an unfortunate accident. Teesri Kasam, the third vow, would come at the very end of the story. Why reveal it now?

When Hira Bai’s manager puts the lady in the cart, the once-bitten-twice-shy Hiraman asks, ‘kyun bhaiya, koi chori chamari ka maal-wal toh nahin?’

During the long journey, Hiraman and Hira Bai engage in gupshup sharing their respective life-story in brief; Hiraman’s betrothed wife died before marriage, he’s unwilling to give up gadiwani – his passion – for the staid domestication of married life; Hira Bai is an independent woman, loves theatre, and is bold enough to quit her old Company for a new one for better prospects. She is aware of the challenges she faces as a nautanki-girl. People with money and power presume that she is available for their carnal pleasure for the right price. Nautanki-goers call her paturia, the vernacular for a prostitute (randi). As a performer, she is obliged and condemned to play her role as per the script. If Laila Majnu has a tragic end, how can I possibly change it? She asks. I must perform my role. But, with my heart in theatre it’d be preposterous for me to ‘play’ the role of a house-wife, a sati Savitri, she says, almost in a soliloquy.

I’ll call you Mita since we share the same name, says Hira Bai; but they are as different from each other as chalk is from cheese, or a bullock-cart from a train. Hiraman’s final dialogue, addressing his pair of bullocks, illustrates the unbridgeable chasm between their different worlds: “Why are you stupid guys looking back longingly at the departing train? Maare gaye gulfaam.” Much before that, Hiraman had reconciled to his fate: Company ki aurat Company mein gayee! 

He now takes his third vow (Teesri Kasam) – never again to accept a Company woman as savari.

Phanishwar Nath Renu

Renu is regarded as one of the greatest Hindi short-story writers. His work is celebrated for its deep rural realism, emotional nuance, and linguistic authenticity. He pioneered anchalik upanyas (regional novels), blending local dialects, idioms, folk-lore and songs and oral storytelling (Mahua ghatwarin’s tragic tale) into literary form. His novel Maila Aanchal is considered a masterpiece.

He was awarded Padmashri in 1970, but returned the award in 1976 protesting the Emergency.

Shailendra (1923-66)

Shailendra (Shankardas Kesarilal) moved from Rawalpindi to Bombay, and worked in the railways before getting a break as a lyricist for Bollywood films. He is revered as one of the greatest lyricists of Bollywood.

He won Filmfare Award (Best Lyricist) in 1959 for Sab Kuch Seekha Humne (Anari), and in 1969 (posthumously) for Jeena Yahan Marna Yahan (Mera Naam Joker). Many of his songs — “Awara Hoon,” “Mera Joota Hai Japani,” “Pyar Hua Ikrar Hua,” “Sajan Re Jhoot Mat Bolo,” and “Jeena Yahan Marna Yahan” — are consistently listed among India’s top film songs in retrospectives by Filmfare, Screen, and BBC Hindi.

Teesri Kasam was shot in less than a year at a cost of about two lakh rupees with Raj Kapoor charging just a rupee as his fees. Sadly, upon release in 1966 the film was not a box-office hit, and Shailendra died in December 1966 - not from disappointment or financial loss, asserts his son.



Shailendra was the only Poet-Lyricist who ventured into producing a film. Later, Gulzar and Javed Akhtar would also be associated in film production, but not as Producer – the investor who undertakes the huge financial risk of the unpredictable fate of a film.

Raghuvir’s Musical Play

The musical play was based upon Renu’s story, but with significant omissions, additions, and improvisations.

Raghuvir plays ‘chacha’ - a new character he added to the story - and performs a cute, impromptu nautanki for his little audience of fellow villagers. 

The humanised bullocks

The talented Director even got Hiraman’s bullocks to speak - in the tradition of Panchatantra stories; and their performance was loved and applauded by the audience.

In Renu’s story, the pair of bullocks were not mere beasts of burden, but humanised through deft turns of phrase: Hiraman frequently chats with them for they were dear members of his family; when he whispers to them during the police raid, the intelligent animals get the message, run through the dark, dense forest giving the police the slip; when lesser bullocks took fright, they were bold enough to transport the caged tiger to earn a handsome wage for Hiraman. At the end of the story, they empathised with their master’s loss and heart-break. They were not ordinary draught animals; that’s why Hira Bai bids them a tender farewell: Bhaiyan, chalte hain.

Raghuvir: Lyricist & Singer

Raghuvir is a lyricist and a good singer, too. His song in Peepli Live (Saiiyan toh khub kamat hai, mehengai dayan kha jaat hai) became a hit.

In MGG, Raghuvir wrote the lyrics, and sang most of them. Good, but no where near Teesri Kasam’s amazing lyrics by Shailendra so endearingly rendered by the star singers of the era – Lata Mangeshkar, Asha Mangeshkar, Suman Kalyanpur, Mukesh, and Manna Dey. Renu’s story contained snatches of many Maithili and Bhojpuri folk-songs – sajan re jhooth mat bolo, sajanwa bairi ho gaye hamar, laali laali doliya mein, maare gaye gulfaam – which Shailendra crafted into the hit songs of the film.

Raghuvir and troupe had travelled 800 kms from Mumbai to Bhopal by a bus (Volvo, of course). Why by a bus, asked the event organiser? We got time to rehearse on the way, said Raghuvir.

Raghuvir had trained at the National School of Drama under the theatre doyen Ebrahim Alkazi - a stern disciplinarian. Once when Raghuvir sought sick-leave, he thundered, ‘If you’re to die, better die in my presence.’

Raghuvir: Actor

Raghuvir made his mark with Massey Sahib (1985) in which Arundhati Roy played his tribal, nearly-speechless wife. After recently reading Roy's Mother Mary Comes to Me, I watched Massey Sahib once again. Raghuvir has acted in more than ninety films including Lagan (2001), Peepli Live (2010), Satya, Piku, and Newton. His TV serial Mungerilal ke haseen sapne is still adored. He is long past his prime, but refuses to fade out. During the current OTT era, he has a distinguished performance as Pradhan Ji in Panchayat which is shot in MP.

Gulab Bai: Queen of Nautanki

Nautanki is not an art form to look down upon. It is part of a rich tradition of folk theatre offering composite entertainment with minimal resources, most likely evolved from Ras Leela, Ram Leela, and similar dialogue-song-dance performances known under different names across the country - Bengal’s Jatra, Odisha’s Opera, Maharashtra’s Tamasha, etc.

In the rural fairs in UP and Bihar, even today the itinerant troupes stage performances by voluptuous girls gyrating to raunchy, bawdy numbers – Arrah hile Baliya hile, Bidi jalai le, Choli ke piche kya hai. But a good nautanki offers much more than a bawdy dance number; it has a dramatic plot and script enacted by professional actors though liberally spiced with folk songs, farce, crude jokes, and dances.

Kanpur, Lucknow, and Hathras were major centres of the nautanki tradition. Gulab Bai of Kanpur emerged as the first nautanki star, and was awarded Padmashri in 1990.

Gulab Bai was Renu’s contemporary, she had broken away from her mentor to form her own Company – The Great Gulab Theatre Company – which staged Laila Majnu, Sultana Daku, etc. Renu might have seen her performance.

Hira Bai is also from Kanpur and she also switched from her parent Company to a new one.

Maybe, Hira Bai’s character is inspired by Gulab Bai.

Enduring Appeal

Phanishwar Nath Renu (1921-77) could hardly have imagined that his 1954 story set in rural north-eastern Bihar bordering Nepal and East Bengal of the-then Pakistan; narrating the tentative, doomed-to-fail love-affair between Hiraman - a rustic gadiwan (bullock-cart driver) and Hira Bai - a nautanki girl from paschim (Kanpur); would be performed at Bhopal in 2025 to a houseful, applauding audience in a ticketed show by Raghuvir Yadav’s theatre group which travelled 800 kms from Mumbai by bus. Why did the audience enjoy and applaud the play even though most of them had not heard of Renu, read his story, watched Teesri Kasam, or had ever seen a bullock-cart used as a mode of transport?

The musical stage play was a veritable nautanki – a medley of suang, songs, dance, farce, slapstick humour, and much more; the only difference being the air-conditioned auditorium and use of modern sound and light technologies. Hiraman and his friends had watched Hira Bai’s performance seated on the mud-floor with pual (paddy straw) keeping their bottoms warm against the night-chill of Kartik.

Immortality is realised not merely through passing down the genes; it manifests in myriad, magical, mysterious ways. A great story stays alive long after the story-teller is gone; a great film is never dated; and nautanki – the rustic folk-theatre - transcends the rural-urban divide and time-travels to mesmerize a modern city-audience.

Resources & References

·      Hindisamay :: तीसरी कसम, उर्फ मारे गए गुलफाम -फणीश्वरनाथ 'रेणु' Tisari kasam,mare gaye gulfam -Phanishwarnath Renu

·      Ek Thi Gulab – Indira Gandhi National Centre for the Arts:  https://youtu.be/E2ay_UBwXvU?si=54mvRg_vnCpD6GRG

·      Vijoy Prakash, Former Divisional Commissioner, Purnia and a dear friend

·      C.P. Singh, a batchmate and dear friend.

·      Wikipedia, ChatGPT, CoPilot, IMDb

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