An Ode to Pakhala: Soul of Odia Cuisine!

 

“O Dooti,

Please fetch forthwith

Kunja Binodia kanji …”

— Radha's Diet Therapy

An Ode to Pakhala: Soul of Odia Cuisine!

An Ode to Pakhala

O Pakhala,
Pour into my heart precious phrases;
Prompt me to pen
A poem befitting your pre-eminent place among cuisines.

Patient nourisher of Odia body and soul,
Provider of rustic vigour and poetic inspiration,
Producer of peerless Konark, pulsating Odissi dance, and
Proud Paika warriors 
who conquered the plains between 
the Ganga and the Godavari,
Precocious voyagers 
who braved perilous seas for prosperous trade.

Probiotic super-food,
Protector against the punishing perils of pitiless summer,
Preserver and promoter of Odia culture,
Proud flag-bearer of Odia cuisine,
Privileged to be on Lord Jagannatha's platter.

Pure, plentiful, pleasing,
Prepared in poor huts and prosperous homes alike,
Partaken with passion by peasants and princes.

Priceless gift of Nature,
Preserve,
Promote,
Perpetuate
Pakhala —
Pride of Odia cuisine and culture.

Pakhala: Soul Food

Pakhala is for Odias what Pizza is for the Italians, Doner Kebab for the Turkish, Hamburger for the Americans, Falafel and Hummus for the Middle Easterners, Beluga Caviar for the Russians, Wagyu Beef for the Japanese, and Peking Duck for the Chinese. To take examples from closer home, Pakhala is to Odisha what Butter Chicken Masala is to Punjab, Hilsa Curry to Bengal, Sattu Paratha with Chokha to Bihar, Dal Bati with Churma to Rajasthan, and Dosa and Idli to the South. Each region has its most favoured food; and Pakhala is that dish for Odisha, the eastern State with a population of about 4.75 crore.

Pakhala Dibasa

Odias are passionate and proud Pakhala eaters. This author is an Odia, and has been nourished by this simple but nutritious meal during his early years, but had not heard of a Pakhala Day, since every day was a pakhala day at home. Social media now tells us that March 20 is designated (by Odisha Culture or Tourism department?) as Pakhala Dibasa, and some have gone a little over the top to name it Vishwa Pakhala Dibasa. No matter if non-Odias are unfamiliar with pakhala; it is hoped that prabasi Odias all over the country and the world would be overcome with nostalgia for their unforgettable love affair with pakhala, and improvise to cook and serve a pakhala meal to their family, at least on this special day.

A friend forwarded an image of Lord Jagannatha savouring pakhala: 

Jagannatha, of course, has no hands or feet — a metaphoric imagining of the formless Supreme Divinity — but in the image above, an artist has taken the liberty of adding hands so that her favourite God may enjoy His favourite dish: pakhala!

Another friend sent a video of his mouth-watering Pakhala meal — a bowl of pakhala with several accompanying dishes of saag, fish-fry, chingudi besar, badi, and fritters. Pakhala Dibasa is a good occasion to promote Odisha tourism, culture and cuisine.

What is Pakhala?

Simply put, Pakhala is ‘rice in water,’ but far from a humdrum serving of savourless starch; it is a culinary delight with excellent nutrition; a wholesome meal with several mouth-watering accompaniments and seasonings. A pakhala meal is a simple yet elaborate affair where the ingredients must be right and the seasoning perfect. While the meal is partaken round the year by many, it is best enjoyed in summer. A soul-satisfying meal for a scorching summer, and a welcome defence against dehydration and fatigue.

Pakhala derives from the Sanskrit word ‘prakshyalana’ and means cooked rice washed with water after draining the thick gruel, and thereafter allowed to sit in water till it is served. It is best cooked in an earthen handi over a slow fire to allow each grain to turn over for even cooking. Alas, the village potters are now out of business, and modern Odia households cook rice in a pressure cooker or an aluminium cooking pot; the old-world taste of pakhala from an earthen handi is perhaps lost forever.

Did you know?

·       Pakhala is made by LAB? The Bacteria Squad responsible for turning rice-in-water into Pakhala are Lactic Acid Bacteria (LAB)!

·       Fermenting rice overnight in water can increase its iron content by up to 20 times compared to freshly cooked rice, thanks to these specific bacteria breaking down "anti-nutrients" like phytic acid.

Pakhala and Poetry

I think pakhala is somehow responsible for poetry and creative writing. Why else does Odisha have more poets and writers per square km (including this humble author) than other parts of India or the world?

An old Odia semi-classical song, Asa Jibana Dhana Mora Pakhala Kansa (“Come, my Love, alluring and irresistible as a bowl of rice in water”), sung by Late Bala Krushna Das, likens the beloved to a pakhala kansa, a delectable meal. The lyric extols pakhala as a life-saving meal, and in a little hyperbole, asserts that the life of a person who has never savoured this heavenly meal is thoroughly wasted. Odias may listen to this song, uploaded on YouTube by Sujit Madhual; for non-Odia readers, I may someday translate the cute song.

Pakhala and Bhakti

Pakhala and associated Odia cuisine appear evocatively in devotional and folk songs where Radha remembers Krishna through simple dishes such as pakhala, kanji, khechedi, saag, and ambila. Readers interested in these remarkable songs may read the author’s earlier blogs - Radha’s Diet Therapy: Part I & II.*

International Day of Happiness

Since 2013, the UN has celebrated March 20 as the International Day of Happiness. The 11th World Happiness Report, 2025 was released on 20 March 2025. Sadly, India ranked 116^th among 147 countries of the world. But that is another story.

It may not be a mere coincidence that Odias have chosen to celebrate March 20 as Pakhala Dibasa. A pakhala meal is guaranteed to make an Odia very, very HAPPY. So, the choice of date is most apt.

Pakhala: Cuisine Fit for God

Of the Chhappan Bhog (56 dishes) served to Lord Jagannatha daily, nine are rice preparations of which four are pakhalas — Dahi pakhala (curd rice and water), Mitha pakhala (rice, sugar, and water), Ada pakhala (rice, grated ginger and water), and Arua pakhala (sun-dried and de-husked white rice, ghee, lemon, and salt).

The nine varieties of rice are served to the Lord with an accompaniment of fourteen different curries. Odias are not only rice eaters, they also consume prodigious amounts of dal, green vegetables and saag. Man has made God in his own image, and serves those dishes which he finds most delicious, not unlike Shabari who tasted each fruit before offering it to Rama.

Odisha Tourism’s Twitter handle mentions Subasa Pakhala (Fragrant Rice in Water), which gets its aroma and unique taste from grated ginger and roasted cumin seeds, and claims that this dish is part of the Chhappan Bhog recipes for Jagannatha. Possibly, it is another name for Ada Pakhala.

A happy diner at Bhubaneswar tweeted his immense satisfaction when served a whole Pakhala meal for lunch in his office.

Odia Chhappan Bhog Eateries

I wonder why no Odia entrepreneur has taken Odia cuisine to the rest of India and the world. How about a chain of Odia Chhappan Bhog Eateries, different from the sweetmeat shops of that name, offering the dishes served daily to Lord Jagannatha? Of course, the cooking method in the Lord’s own kitchen at Puri is so unique, no replication would taste as divine. But those who have never visited Puri could get an idea of the variety of dishes served to Jagannatha.

Even before that, Odias who host for their friends, including non-Odias, prasad sevan at Jagannath Temple, Hauz Khas, New Delhi, could include at least one pakhala dish with accompaniments, maybe as the first course.

Pakhala Protocol

Over the centuries, Odias have evolved a detailed Pakhala Protocol, never written down but preserved in the oral heritage of the people. Which variety of paddy makes the tastiest pakhala? How long should the grain be aged for the best result? How should rice be cooked in an earthen handi over a slow fire? How many hours should the rice-in-water rest and ferment? All this and much more form part of the unwritten wisdom surrounding pakhala.

Here are two quick tips. Pakhala is best partaken seated on the floor, and best savoured with your bare fingers. Cutlery can be a spoiler.

India's Most Underrated Cuisine

Vikas Khanna, celebrity chef, says that Odia cuisine is India's most underrated. Pakhala is the first of the five must-try Odia dishes he recommends.#

A Typical Pakhala Meal

A typical pakhala meal comprises:

• Rice in water
• Fish — fried or curried, big or small
• Sour dish — tomato khata or similar
• Saag
• Tawa-fried pointed gourd (potala/parwal), potato or brinjal slices, drumsticks, badi, chickpea
• Curd
• A few pods of fresh tamarind or sun-dried mango slice (ambula), with salt, green chillies, spring onions, a few cloves of garlic; may be embellished with lightly roasted, pickled, and diced bamboo shoots
• In summer, a few drops of the juice from the stem of a freshly plucked raw mango to season the pakhala for an amazing aroma

Pakhala Varieties: Fresh or Fermented

Jagannatha is served only fresh or Garama pakhala, and only very fine arua (also called alua) rice (sun-dried and de-husked) is used; but many of his devotees are partial to ushuna (par-boiled rice lightly de-husked), which is tastier and healthier. Many also prefer basi, which is fermented rice, with the degree of fermentation being an individual choice.

In the past, joint families in the villages cooked only one major meal a day — a big handi of rice — to serve at least two meals to the entire family, and yet another serving the next day. Rice cooked in the morning is mildly fermented in summer by the evening, decently fermented by the next noon, and strongly fermented thereafter. Some also eat tiasi, which is the third day of fermentation.

In summer, every house in the village is a micro-brewery, and the torani, the starchy rice gruel of the pakhala serving, is indeed a naturally fermented rice drink; a perfect antidote to the harsh summer. Basi is sour, and tastes better with dollops of salt, much needed to restore the electrolyte balance after profuse sweating.

Summer is Here

For sweltering summer, lightly fermented probiotic Pakhala is a super cool remedy. 

Where in Delhi to savour Pakhala? Rastrapati Bhawan, if you are family or friends of India's Citizen Number One, or can somehow wangle an invitation to those hallowed premises. Home of two powerful bureaucrats in the PMO, or of any Odia - in heart, soul, and palate.

Even though we are prabasi Odias, we often have pakhala for lunch in summer. Our cook is very confused when my spouse pours water on top of cooked rice! Spouse prefers fresh pakhala with curd; my preference is for the mildly fermented; both of us are guaranteed satisfaction and a relaxing siesta.

Should you visit our home in summer at lunch, we would be happy to give you a taste of Pakhala and the unique Taste of Odisha!

***

#Odisha #Odia #Pakhala

Links:

*Radha’s Diet Therapy - Part I:

https://www.pkdash.in/2026/05/radhas-diet-therapy-part-i.html

*Radha’s Diet Therapy - Part II:

https://www.pkdash.in/2023/10/radhas-soul-food-part-ii.html

# https://www.msn.com/en-in/foodanddrink/other/chef-vikas-khanna-on-how-odia-cuisine-is-india-s-most-underrated/ar-AA22zMZs?ocid=socialshare

 Postscript

Pakhala’s cousins

After reading my blog, several readers have shared their memories of enjoying rice-in-water. Pakhala has several cousins in most parts of India.

Eastern & North-Eastern India

In these states, the dish is a cultural staple, often celebrated with dedicated festivals.

• Poita Bhaat (Assam): Similar to Pakhala, but typically served with Alu Pitika (mashed potatoes with mustard oil) and raw onions.
• Panta Bhat (West Bengal): The Bengali version, often paired with fried fish (especially Hilsa), Bhortas (mashed vegetables), or pickles.
• Basi Bhaat (Bihar & Jharkhand): Basi literally translates to "stale" or "old." It is commonly eaten with green chilies, onions, and Aloo Chokha.
• Bore Basi (Chhattisgarh): A traditional breakfast for farmers, often consumed with Badi (sun-dried lentil dumplings) and leafy greens.

Southern India

In the south, the dish is often enriched with curd or buttermilk before or after fermentation.

• Pazhamkanji (Kerala): Literally "old gruel." It is traditionally relished with small onions (shallots), green chilies (kanthari), fish curry, or mango chutney.
• Chaddannam / Saddi Annam (Andhra Pradesh & Telangana): Chaddi means "cold" or "old." It is often mixed with curd and salt, served with mango or gongura pickles.
• Pazhaya Sadam (Tamil Nadu): Along with the name you mentioned (Pazhaya Soru), this version is widely known for being a natural coolant during the harsh summers.
• Ambali (Karnataka): While Ambali can also refer to a finger millet (ragi) porridge, the fermented rice version is a popular hydrating summer meal in rural areas.

Other Regional Variations

• Geel Bhat (Madhya Pradesh): A common term used for rice soaked in water, often eaten for its cooling properties.
• Kanji (General/North): While Kanji usually refers to a fermented carrot drink in Punjab, in many other parts of India, the word is used generically for the fermented starch water drained from the rice.

Panta Bhat in Australia

A Bengali friend, after reading my blog, recalled his childhood memories of savouring Panta Bhat in rural Bengal decades ago. He also mentioned that Panta Bhat had feature in the grand finale of MasterChef Australia.

In MasterChef Australia Season 13, which aired in 2021, Kishwar Chowdhury, a Bangladeshi-Australian became a global sensation for bringing "peasant food" to the fine-dining stage.

The Dish that Made History

In the grand finale, Kishwar served Panta Bhat—a humble, traditional Bengali dish of fermented leftover rice soaked in water. In the context of the high-stakes competition, she elevated it with:

Smoked Rice Water:  She gave the traditional soaking liquid a sophisticated, smoky profile.

Sardines & Salsa: Instead of the usual simple sides, she paired it with fried sardines and a spicy onion-chilli salsa.

 Aloo Bhorta: She included the classic mashed potato side, seasoned with mustard oil and chillies.

Why It Was a Big Deal

 Breaking Stigma: Panta Bhat was historically viewed as "poor man's food" or a simple rural breakfast. Kishwar’s decision to serve it in a finale was a bold statement on cultural identity and the value of heritage cooking.

 The Reaction: The judges (Jock Zonfrillo, Melissa Leong, and Andy Allen) were blown away by the depth of flavor. Melissa Leong famously noted that it was "food that tells a story."

 Cultural Pride: The moment went viral across Bangladesh and India (specifically West Bengal), sparking a massive wave of nostalgia and pride among Bengalis worldwide.